Heart Casino Rama 2010-07-23

OK, I know this one's going to look a little out of place when you browse through the shows I've seen over the past few years. Closest I came to '70's power-rock would have been Alice Cooper. I was offered a pair of tickets to this show by a generous benefactor in Chicago. Apparently a big fan of Heart (and Def Leppard too if I remember last years offer.) I'm reluctant to be a gun-for-hire, it seems so mercenary and so much can go wrong. But it can be seen as a service too, and if you want it, come and get it.

What I do get out of it is a night out and the chance to drop a few hundred in the casino. (FTR, I was down $140 at the roulette table when I went 'all in' with my last $25. Won big, got to play another half hour, left a $25 tip for the croupier and was only down $15.)

Ann and Nancy can still kick some rock'n'roll ass. It's a small group of women who have been able to hold their own in the male-dominated group category. Joan Jett comes to mind. Chrissy Hynde, even with the testosterone laden band. Patti Smith. This is not fluff and the ladies are not poseurs. They've been on a massive year long tour that started late in January and runs through to the end of September. Impressive, as the girls start to celebrate b'days in the more advanced range.

They are on the road a month ahead of the release of their first album in 6 years, Red Velvet Car. They debuted some tracks at Seattle's EMP this spring.

An excellent show. Ann's voice is really something and I'd argue she has more skill now than she did 30 years ago. Songs like Magic Man and Crazy on You are improved. Her inflection hints at a wealth of life experience she didn't have when she first sang these songs. There were a lot of highlights but if you want a short list; Alone and Crazy on You. Virtuoso performances.

On a side note it was refreshing to see women give women standing ovation after standing ovation, a real celebration of talent and survival.

Disc 1

Track 01 Cook With Fire (Dog and Butterfly, 1978)
Track 02 Heartless (Magazine, 1978)
Track 03 Never
Track 04 Straight On (Dog and Butterfly, 1978)
Track 05 Dog and Butterfly (Dog and Butterfly, 1978)
Track 06 These Dreams (Heart, 1985)
Track 07 Hey You (Red Velvet Car, 2011)
Track 08 Even It Up/Gimme Shelter (Bebe Le Strange, 1980)
Track 09 Red Velvet Car (Red Velvet Car, 2011)
Track 10 In the Cool
Track 11 Alone (Bad Animals, 1987)
Track 12 WTF (Red Velvet Car, 2011)

Disc 2

Track 01 Magic Man (Dreamboat Annie, 1976)
Track 02 Crazy On You (Dreamboat Annie, 1976)
Track 03 Barracuda (Little Queen, 1977)
Track 04 encore break/band intro
Track 05 What Is And What Never Should Be
Track 06 What About Love (Heart, 1985)

Jimmy CliffMassey Hall2010-07-19

One of five inductees to the Rock N Roll Hall of Fame this year, Jimmy Cliff is enjoying a resurgence as he tours his first release in six years, Existence.

You know, I hate to be the one to dis the revered Massey Hall but they need some new vocal mics...or somebody at the board who knows what they are doing. I see about 60 shows a year in different venues and this place currently sucks sonically. Smashing Pumpkins, David Byrne, Joan Baez, Levon Helm...all muddy vocals and clear instruments. Maybe it's my seats...dead center on the floor.

Opening act was a folk-singer, Trevor Hall. Bit of a child-prodigy. Was a fortunate son who was born in South Carolina but found himself at an LA arts school where his first record was being sold to friends by grade 10 and he had a Geffen contract before he graduated.

Ain't nowhere to go but down from those lofty heights.

Geffen releases little of his work and subsequently drops him from the label. It's indie time in what is the new world order of the music industry.
He's touring this most recent release, This Is Blue. More than decent, reggae tinged set. Kinda like The Police without that insufferable lead singer and all that Tantric stuff.

Here's his the songs and a couple samples.

Track 01 You Find Me
Track 02 Where's The Love
Track 03 All I Ever Know
Track 04 Om Shakti Om
Track 05 ?Good Rain (new song)
Track 06 Unity


Jimmy Cliff was life affirming and just plain fun. He rolled out all the hits and more and spent a good part of the night jiving around the stage. It's all in this set...The Specials, The Police, gangsta rap, the sounds of Jamaica, a hint of Bob...a real treat.

Disc 1

Track 01 Intro
Track 02 Wonderful World, Beautiful People
Track 03 Sitting in Limbo
Track 04 Rebel Rebel Rebel
Track 05 Wild World
Track 06 One More
Track 07 Save Our Planet Earth
Track 08 Vietnam (Afghanistan)
Track 09 The Harder They Come
Track 10 World Upside Down
Track 11 I Can See Clearly Now
Track 12 Many Rivers To Cross


Disc 2

Track 01 Bongo Man/By Rivers of Babylon
Track 02 Treat the Youth Right
Track 03 My Rub A Dub Partner
Track 04 encore break
Track 05 You Can Get It If You Really Want

Dead Weather 2.0Sound Academy2010-07-15

Jack's back!

It is what it is, but it ain't no White Stripes.

It's not even The Raconteurs.

First time out to the Sound Academy. My KOOL HAUS boycott is forcing me to find new venues. Wish I'd have missed this one. Lovely looking place with great sound. Stage is too low and the bar is too big, at least 60% of the audience wouldn't have been able to see the artists. Don't get VIP parking. It's close to the venue but it takes a good while to get out if you don't miss the encore. If you take the TTC, bring a lunch for the walk in.

Opening band, Lullabye Arkestra, was, ummmm, melodically challenged. You know it's not a good sign when ticketbastard mispells your name.
Shame on the people behind Dead Weather. I see live music in this city. I know there are more worthy bands. It's nothing but laziness that sees this act win a covetted opening spot. Strange thing is Jack has seen his 'other father' Bob Dylan books acts as talented as The Raconteurs, The Foo Fighters, Elvis Costello and Kings Of Leon, in front of his set. The old goat may not be the stallion he once was but he ain't afraid of no pony's.

Next time you venture this way drop me a line and I'll find you a group that challenges AND pleases your audience.

Their set list went something like this:

Drone #1 Instrumental
Drone #2 w/ vocals, duet
Drone #3 w/ vocals, solo
Screamfest #1
Screamfest #2
Sonic Insult #1
Drone #4
Sesame Street Song, as in "one of these things doesn't belong here, one of these things isn't the same." Some lovely classic sounding country tune that really spotlighted the chicks singing abilities. I'd give you an mp3 but it might suck you into tracking this band down.
Screamfest #3
Sonic Insult #2
Drone #5 and onwards.

Thing is this husband and wife team is about 12 years too old for what they're singing and the only club that would tolerate this shit shut down about 6 months ago when the Kathredal/Big Bop et al left the Queen St scene.

Jack's been making some noise about the quality of discourse on the internet of late. He's been planting stories in the press deriding that sea of cowards who hide behind avatars and screen names while pissing on the world outside.

Well, that brings this review to an end.

Just kidding, I'm gonna bitch. These are strange shows with the Dead Weather. I have a suspicion there's a dynamic at play that is never going to let this band grow beyond the status of a Jack White side-project. I know, Jack'd come up and smack me right now for saying so but it ain't just me, check out the event code on the ticket above.
It's like Alison hasn't brought in a group of hardcore Kills fans to see how she's doing. Dean probably doesn't have a flock of QOTSA groupies on the road. I'll bet dollars to donuts that anyone who was enamoured with Little Jack's stint in the Greenhorns would'nt last more than 2 songs. Who's that leave?

Well, two kinds of people...those who gotta go 'cause it's a 'White Stripes happenin' night out' and me.
The first type were the ones jabbering through the intro's to You Just Can't Win and Will There Be Enough Water?

I go because if I could have witnessed Shakespeare writing notes in the margins of Christopher Marlow's work I would have been there to pick it up for posterity's sake.

The band is better than they were last year. Louder. Tighter. The songs...well, I've only heard them once so I can't tell you if the new ones are better. Hustle and Cuss is the only one that stood out.

Set List

60 Feet Tall
Hang You From The Heavens
You Just Can't Win
So Far From Your Weapon
Cut Like a Buffalo
No Horse
Jack talk - collecting Cdn debt
Difference Between Us
I'm Mad
Rocking Horse
Hustle & Cuss
Gasoline
Die By The Drop
New Pony
Will There Be Enough Water?
(encore break/band intro)


Blue Blood Blues
Jawbreaker
I Can't Hear You
Treat Me Like Your Mother

CR AveryCicada Music Fest #22010-07-11

A daytime show in the lovely sunshine. Once again a stellar set right in front of CR's, delivered by Brock Zeman.

CR is up to the challenge as he gives us three covers tonight, Waits' Big In Japan, The Beatles Blackbird and Lucinda Williams' Bus to Baton Rouge. Highlight of the set was the impromptu blues riff that retold the story of last nights post-concert jam.

Track 01 Big In Japan (Waits)
Track 02 Door By The River
Track 03 Small Town
Track 04 ??KKK
Track 05 Bus To Baton Rouge (L Williams)
Track 06 Blackbird (Lennon/McCartney)
Track 07 Evidently Sweet Child Blues(w special guests Shade Proposals)
Track 08 Piano Lessons
Track 09 encore break/talk
Track 10 Folk Singer

CR AveryCicada Music FestPort Dalhousie ONJuly 10,2010

Poet, beat-boxer, rock n roller CR Avery is still out there, working hard, waitin' on you to get it.

He'll be back here in September for a book tour if fortune smiles.

Yesterday I caught his headlining set at theCicada Music Fest.

He's back onstage at 5pm today so you still have time.

We were well entertained in the early afternoon by Dust Devil alumni Kevin Higgins and Barbara Malteze before the Roger Marin Band put in a headliner quality set of their own.

CR came out and challenged the gathered multitude...complete with a parental advisory at the beginning in case things got ugly. They didn't. They never do. The score is now CR Avery 17, enlightened audience 0.

Here's the songs, with some samples.

CR Avery
Cicada Music Fest
Port Dalhousie, ON
2010-07-10


Track 01 Parental Warning/Intro
Track 02 Is This What You Wanted? (Cohen)
Track 03 The Boxer Who Just Returned From London
Track 04 Maggies Farm (Dylan)
Track 05 I'm Gonna Eat You Out
Track 06 Jimi Hendrix/ Dylan
Track 07 Love Song
Track 08 Pierre Eliot Trudeau
Track 09 When I'm Gone

Levon Helmw/ special guest John HiattMassey HallToronto ON2010-06-29

Levon Helm brought 'Ramble Light' through his old stomping grounds...or close by anyway. While the Yonge St taverns he played in the early '60's are long gone, Levon is still plying his trade as he skips by 70 years of age.

He's overcome a fair bit of adversity, from business quarrels and bankruptcy to severe health issues, yet to see him smilin' from behind the drums, singing those songs, you'd never guess it.

Coming full circle, from Arkansas to Toronto to Woodstock and back, of all things lost along the way, the love of music wasn't among them. I've had the pleasure of seeing the Midnight Ramble in the confines of Levon's barn in Woodstock on couple of occasions. It's a "must do" event for all fans, can't be beat as an experience. He's brought along his crack house-band, led by Larry Campbell, who once starred in the best band Bob Dylan's ever had...that wasn't called The Band. Levon's daughter, Amy, is on the road lending vocal support and completing the familial circle.

Evening opened with a set from John Hiatt, who has made a career out of being almost famous. A bit of a shape-shifter early in his career, moving between New Wave, rock and roots, his more mature years prove that you can take the boy out of the country but you can't take the country out of the boy.

Hiatt's set list

Drive South (Slow Turning, 1988)
Lift Up Every Stone (Crossing Muddy Waters, 2000)
Crossing Muddy Waters (Crossing Muddy Waters, 2000)
The Open Road (Open Road, 2010)
The Tiki Bar Is Open (The Tiki Bar Is Open, 2001)
My Baby (Open Road, 2010)
Cry Love (Walk On, 1995)
Feels Like Rain (Slow Turning, 1998)
Perfectly Good Guitar (Perfectly Good Guitar, 1993)
Tennessee Plates (Slow Turning, 1988)
Have A Little Faith (Bring the Family, 1987)
Riding With the King (Y'all Caught, 1989)

Karen ElsonLive at the ElMoJune 16,2010

Let's get these two things out of the way :
This music is a bit too slow and soft for my liking.
Karen Elson is real easy on the eyes.

Neither of those things have to do with the art of the show.
They speak only to my personal preferences.

Great voice. A cross between a mature Joan Baez and Kate Bush. Interestingly enough she seems to borrow a little from both those artists when composing songs. Karen's writing is from another time, if not another dimension. She owes a lot to traditional English folk songs; melodically, thematically and for the ethereal, haunting moods.

Her road band consists of Jackson Smith (Patti’s son and the husband of Meg White) on guitar and virtuoso Rachelle Garniez(who has previously collaborated with Karen in Citizen’s Band and garnered some co—writing credits on this record) on accordion and organ. The rhythm section is made up of drummer Marc Fellis and bassist Olivia Jean. Further support is provided by Mark Watrous on fiddle and pedal steel.

This band has mastered the art of understatement, which keeps the focus squarely on the stage-shy Karen.
At times they threaten to rock, other times they hint at rolling, but overall they waltz.

The lyrics are filled with deliciously descriptive scenes. From the cold-blooded murder-by-embrace in the title song ("She looked at him with pleading eyes / he softly spoke,"my dear the love has died" / and then he muffled her desperate cries under the moonlight", to the melodramtic "the only rain...are these tears" in the dust-bowl ballad Mouths to Feed.

A juxtaposition of an alt-country lounge act and stories from the Romantic era.

The hour long set included an almost complete run-through of the album and closed with a great cover of Donovan's Season of the Witch. Ironically, it was with the cover that Karen seemed most at ease, like she was able to just perform for the fun of it, without the pressure of laying out her own compositions for acceptance or ridicule. She's had almost universally good reviews of the studio work. Her short tour has elicited some excited typing on the interweb. It's still early, she's gotta find her mojo, then she's gotta show it to us.

Set List:
(missing)
The Birds They Circle
Pretty Babies
Cruel Summer
Stolen Roses

The Truth is In the Dirt on the Ground (incomplete)
Milk & Honey (Jackson C French)
100 Years From Now
Lunasa
I'm In Trouble with the Lord
Save the Last Laugh
(encore)
The Ghost Who Walks (solo)
Thief At the Door
Season of the Witch (D Leitch)

PS:I spent the early part of the evening down the road at The Smiling Buddha where I missed CR Avery's set in support of Toronto poet, Dave Silverberg's Toronto Poetry Slam. Time well wasted there. Unfortunately, a little too much as I misjudged Karen's starting time by about 20 minutes. Oh well.

Evelyn/EvelynFeaturing Amanda Palmerand Jason WebleyThe Great Hall2010-06-04

Ecstatic about being out from under the clutches of Roadrunner records Amanda Palmer is taking her cabaret stylings on the road with a circus twist. Evelyn/Evelyn promises to be interesting, if nothing else.

Amanda's a peculiar niche artist, a combination of performance art and music. Purveyors of this genre of entertainment take a chance, everytime they step onstage, that the gathered few will just not get it. It takes a little moxy to get out on the end of the limb. (Similar artists, Vermillion Lies and Hank and Lily.)

The Great Hall is a vintage venue located on the vibrant Queen St West strip. Been standing since 1889 and now it serves as a magnet for the avante-guarde. A great marriage of artist and locale.

After the cacaphony of a short opening set by Sxip Shirey he stays on board to play the evenings MC and the oppressive overseer of the twins, The Great Scaphisto.

The girls are shy, and you can't really blame them, they've had a difficult life. They sing songs of passage, which in their case involves love and loathing. Yet underneath the seething animosity you can feel the emotional bond that keeps these sisters together.

I won't review their set because it's really a visual thing. You have to see this to truly appreciate the art. There are some excellent reviews of this show online, just go to googleblogs and search the girls. Check out this youtube documentary.

In what was a huge surprise we were treated to a couple extra sets after the girls had finished as both Jason Webley and Amanda Fucking Palmer had some time to spare after their afternoon tryst at The Drake Hotel.

Webley comes out strong; a big voice on this foot-stomping-accordionist. Lots of audience participation required for his set. First time in Toronto for Jason and I'm happy to report the enthusiastic crowd made him welcome.

Amanda Palmer is well loved by her circle of friends. This tour, if successful, may allow her to buy outer-clothes. It will be our loss. She seemed particularly excited about the upcoming release of her ukelele covers of Radiohead songs.

Here's a list of the songs they played:

Evelyn/Evelyn
w/ Sxip Sherey
Jason Webley
Amanda Palmer
The Great Hall
Toronto ON
2020-06-04

Sxip Sherey

I Live In New York City
Rain on the Roses

Evelyn and Evelyn Neville

Happy Birthday Evelyn
MC Intro
Evelyn Evelyn
Have You Seen My Sister, Evelyn?

MC Rap
The Tragic Events of September - Part 1
MC Rap
Chicken Man
You Only Want Me 'Cause You Want My Sister
The Chalice of Knowledge
Elephant Elephant
MC Rap/Interlude
Lean On Me
MC Rap
My Space
MC Rap/Encore Call
Love Will Tear Us Apart

Jason Webley

Dance While the Sky Crashes Down
There's Not A Step We Can Take That Does Not Bring Us Closer
Pork Goulash
? (new song or another song)
Icarus


Amanda Palmer

Astronaut
Missed Me
Ampersand
Amanda talks
High and Dry (Radiohead)
Amanda talks
Do You Swear
Amanda and Jason talk
Electric Blanket
Runs In the Family
Drinking Song

Karen ElsonEl Mocambo06/16/2010

There really should be so much more in that title...like Mrs. Jack White!
Except she ain't him and that's not what it's about.
Truth be told I wouldn't be going to this show if it wasn't for the Third Man Records connection and that marriage and kids stuff.



Doors open and there's no telling how. I wouldn't have gotten to Jack White if it wasn't for Bob Dylan and White himself has stirred my interest in other artists, like Loretta Lynn for one. Let's see if his mojo is working on this artist. Quite the limb you climb out on when you're promoting you're other half.

Having said that, I'm looking forward to this show. Karen's made her mark in NYC as part of the cabaret troupe, The Citizens Band,
garnering a wealth of positive reviews for her singing and songwriting. She's been involved with the likes of Robert Plant, Michael Stipe and Cat Power over the years, so it's not nepotism that finds her out here with her solo debut, The Ghost Who Walks.

With Jack's help and her own connections she has surrounded herself with a stellar band for this showcase venture. Accordion and polka rhythms come from NYC diva Rachelle Garniez. My Morning Jacket guitarist Carl Broemel sits in on the country-IOT, pedal steel. Greenhorns, Raconteurs and Dead Weather bassman Jack Lawrence helps out no one on drums, near as I can tell from the website. Mr. Meg White, offspring of Patti and Sonic, Jackson Smith plays lead.

The question is...will this be her road band? Will the Dead Weather lend their drummer? Perhaps Jackson's wife will test out the stage again? Will the kids be along for the trip?

Terry Sylvesterformerly of The Hollies2010-05-08Crowne Plaza Hotel

Terry Sylvester performed a short set back in 2008, or was it 2007? at Hippiefest, which explains the memory issue.

The Hollies were inducted in the Rock N Roll Hall of Fame this past March and he's opening a small celebratory tour with two nights at a buffet-and-music club in his adopted hometown. In light of the confusion at the induction ceremony it will be interesting if he has anything to say.

And we're celebrating as well, Monday marks 31 years of wedded bliss, and while we may have more memories behind than years in front, we are still keepin' on.

Terry has been all around the biggest stars that came out of the British Invasion. He grew up near McCartney in Liverpool and an early band of his opened for The Beatles throughout the early '60's at The Cavern Club, including their last club show. If you scroll down that Cavern page you'll find a flyer with The Escorts listed.

Fortune continued to smile, in a rather wry manner, when his band The Escorts were left terribly short of members due to illness. On the same bill, The Hollies. Graham Nash and a couple others came to the rescue...joining Terry onstage 4 years before he officially became part of the group, ironically replacing Graham. In the intervening years he found himself a spot in The Swinging Bluejeans.

Not a bad series of event to get you through the decade. So here we are, 40 years later.

It's 'rock concert lite', a short set with a handful of Hollies originals and a sprinkling of other British Invasion era hits. Pure nostalgia, enjoyable throughout.

Track 01 Carrie Ann
Track 02 I'll Be Your Baby Tonight (Dylan)
Track 03 Just One Look
Track 04 Make It With You (Gates/Bread)
Track 05 Bus Stop
Track 06 Don't Let the Sun Catch You Crying (Gerry/Pacemakers)
Track 07 Hippy Hippy Shake (Swinging Bluejeans)
Track 08 The Air That I Breathe
Track 09 Till There Was You (Beatles)
Track 10 Long Cool Woman
Track 11 He Ain't Heavy, He's My Brother

Simon & GarfunkelApril 24,2010New Orleans Jazzfest

So you're wondering why the tour was pushed back a couple months?
Take a listen here. They did us all a favour.

Having said that, the only place in the world you could roll out Simon & Garfunkel with an under-rehearsed Simon and a cracking-voiced Garfunkel, is New Orleans.
They don't call this city the Big Easy for nothing.

Our thoughts are with our friends and those strangers as they prepare to do battle with yet another disaster.

This recording suffers from a multitude of problems; poor positioning, I was wide right (I decided early I wouldn't wade into the mud for a better spot), a vocal crowd including Sir Clap-A-Lot and Chatty Cathy's, the artists onstage and a strong, persistent wind...the biggest culprit of all. It's also incomplete as we left at the encore so we'd be comfortably in place for Patti Smith. If you can tolerate those troubles, it testifies to the moment.

Now something magical did happen when it became apparent Art was not going to be able to deliver. He started by begging off some verses then left the stage for awhile. Upon his return things were no better but the audience was behind his every attempt 100%. It was heartwarming, if not acoustically divine. We'll get that in a couple of months.

A Hazy Shade of Winter
I Am A Rock
America
Keep the Customer Satisfied
Slip Sliding Away
El Condor Pasa
Scarborough Fair Canticle
Mrs Robinson/Not Fade Away
Homeward Bound
(Paul solo)
Diamonds on the Souls of Her Shoes
The Boy in the Bubble
That Was Your Mother
The Only Living Boy in New York
(Art Returns)
My Little Town
Bridge Over Troubled Water

Patti SmithApril 24,2010Tipitina's UptownNew Orleans LA

Gotta love New Orleans.
Had a vacation planned for early April but it got bumped to late April due to reasons over which I had no control.
Wasn't planning on seeing any music this time through the States but circumstances alter cases and I ended up seeing 5 generations of the Neville's do this years "Nevillution" at Tipitina's in the French Quarter. Caught Art Neville's Funky Meters at Jazzfest in front of Simon and Garfunkel. Closed that Saturday night with Patti Smith at Tipitina's Uptown.

Patti was terrific. In great voice and a great mood. Her stage patter was political, satirical, hysterical and whimsical...all at once. She was playing the part of anarchist; "You can't depend on your fucking government for anything." Equally comfortable as the activist, raising consciousness about a local rebuilding effort. And nostalgic; "People think I'm the great-great-great-great- Grandmother of punk because I spit onstage....Have you ever tried singing AND swallowing?"

She had me at "Hello".

Patti Smith
4/24/10
Tipitina's, New Orleans, LA

Be My Baby
Redondo Beach
Free Money
Grateful
Ghost Dance
Beneath The Southern Cross
Pushin' Too Hard (Lenny vocal, special guest Jan Savage from The Seeds, as introduced OR Peter Buck of REM as reported by Rolling Stone)
We Three
Dancin Barefoot
Ain't It Strange
?Black Leaves Are Falling? (a new song about Roberto Belaño)
My Blacken Year
Pissing In A River
People Who Died (Lenny, Tony, Patti vocals)
Wichita Lineman (Micheal Stipe vocal, also with Peter Buck,Scott McCaughey )
People Have The Power (with Stipe and Buck,Scott McCaughey )

(encore)
Perfect Day
Because The Night
Gloria

Backroads TourDay 9AlabamaThe Yellowhammer State

Lots of road today as we drive into a bright, rising sun, heading East.

I've got a few things I want to see in Montgomery but it'll be just drive-by shootings as it's Sunday and everything is closed. I mean EVERYTHING. More on that later.

Montgomery has no traffic so we quickly find our way to the Civil Rights Memorial



and then the First White House of the Confederacy.



The Hank Williams Memorial was on our list and we ran into a little luck as we were approaching Montgomery when we came across his boyhood home in Georgiana, AL.



Only a short distance away his resting place.



We were told we couldn't buy beer or alcohol in Alabama on a Sunday but that didn't worry us because we were staying in Georgia this evening. I wasn't aware they had the same antiquated blue-laws still in place. What I did find peculiar was that you could buy pornography and hash-pipes, just not beer. Gotta wonder how the Churches missed that one.

Backroads TourDays 6 through 8 LouisianaThe Pelican State

First Day

A little late on this update but NO will do that to you.
There's almost nothing better than driving over Lake Pontchartrain...mostly because you are minutes away from the Crescent City.
Our host treats us to a day of local colour and a handful of bars. Unlike our '03 trip which was spent mostly in the French Quarter and in a drunken haze this trip allows us to see the rest of the city...in a drunken haze.
We start at Gram Parsons grave, 'cause it's there and many don't know why. Afchter that bodysnatchers episode and a futile attempt to create ashes to scatter at joshua tree, Grams body ended up in the hands of his step-father and in a cemetary near Metarie, LA.
As we were wandering around trying to find the site a groundskeeper showed us the way, noting many people come through here for just this purpose. Seeing dead-people sometimes just reminds you how many wasted lives the '60's and 70's created.



More dead people at St Louis Cemetery #1, the voodoo queen, Marie Laveuax. When we happend upon this site there was a young man doing a documentary, explaining the juju that surrounds Marie. He relegated her unique knowledge of persons to her job as a hairdresser as well as a contact, via her daughter, with other sources of information. No magic involved.


Along the road we saw the house Bob recorded Oh Mercy in, Ann Rice's home before the fans made her move, and a tour of the Lower Ninth Ward where the greatest engineering failure in American history wiped out a neighbourhood.

Fats Domino's house is in decent shape, due to the help of Tipitina's fundraising effort.


Unfortunately there's no such fund-raising for the house next door.


One thing to keep in mind, amoung a hundred, is that parts of the 9th ward were decrepit before Katrina. The issues surrounding rejuvenation and rebuilding are complex. Efforts have been made, even if they were misguided.

A less distressing stop was made at Ernie K-Doe's bar.


You want bars? Visit NO. Lafitte's in the French Quarter is a nice spot to stop. The oldest building left standing after a series of burn-downs during the Spanish Occupation.


More comfortable are the bars on Frenchmans Street. Not quite 'locals only' but they are devoid of first-time-visitors. We stopped in at the Spotted Cat.



A quick stop by Tipitina's to pick up our Patti Smith tix rounded out the early day.



And a totally unrelated observation, here's what the Battle of New Oleans looked like from the wrong side.


Night time is filled with a show at Tipitina's French Quarter where 5 generations of the Neville's were partaking in "Nevellution". I can't remember them all and will need the help of my recording to refresh my memory but the night started with a youngun' I'll call 'Hip Hop Neville'. He didn't suck terribly but the band he had supporting him could have used some help.
When Snoop Dog Neville (Cyril) took the stage with Charmaine the night got better. Now I don't have my editing software with me and I don't even have headphones so I can barely hear this stuff on my laptop but the show turned around at Papa Was A Rolling Stone. Hope to have more good sounds after I get home. this recording is a little 'hot'. We missed seeing Art 'cause he was a little tired.

Papa Was A Rolling Stone


Day 2

Cece and I missed our chance for a plantation tour because I didn't know how long the drive was. That's ok, it's always nice to have a reason to go back.

We were supposed to be worried about the Gators but this cat has evil on his mind.


We did get up close and personal with some Gators during the swamp tour though.

Nightime entertainment was dinner with our hosts at Brigtsen's. Good food, good company, that shit can't be beat.

Day 3

Simon and Garfunkel at Jazzfest. Art's voice was shot but it was nice to see the audience cheer him on. Now it's one thing to have your voice suck at the Jazzfest where our $45 got us a ton of other acts, including Art Neville and his Funky Meters, but they best not bring this shit to Toronto where the tix are costing $250 dollars. I don't think the audience will be so kind.

Catch this wonderfully horrific version of Bridge Over Troubled Waters.

Backroads TourDay 5MississippiThe Magnolia State

"Where we going today, baby?" Cece asks over morning coffee.
I reply, "Tupelo, honey."

We spend the morning chasing down the signposts that are the young Elvis. At the museum they have the First Assembly Church the Presley's attended. It was moved here from somewhere else.

I don't know if the house was moved as well but it would have been an easier lift.

Next stop is for breakfast at Johnny's Diner, featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives but a favourite hangout of the young Elvis.

Check out the picture of the dude I had to kick out of this booth.

Now you can't tell from this picture but that is a beautiful shot of a young and gorgeous Elvis sitting at this booth. The restaurant is selling t-shirts, hats and cups BUT NOT prints of that photo, which they own. Quite the oversite. I mentioned it to the staff and they said it had never occured to them to do that...perhaps next time you stop in you can pick me up a print if they wake up to the possibilities.

The rest of the tour includes his primary school, high school and the hardware store where he bought his first guitar.

On the road again towards Meridian for a stop at the Jimmie Rodgers museum. Now I thought this was going to be a brief stop, merely a signpost, but the host at the museum made it much more than that as she regalled us with JR stories. Furthermore, even though it says "NO PHOTOS without permission from Jimmie Rodgers INC" she let me take out my camera. Only Cece and I in the place and she seemed happy to have company.

Great artifacts inside here, lots of postcards and letters, one from his stint in NYC to his sister asking why she doesn't write. A copy of his business card with a note on the back asking the promoter to treat the holder with respect. His performance tux and the travelling case he used when on the road.

The highlight (or intended highlight) was Jimmie Rodgers original guitar, made for him by Martin guitars and at the time, the only one in existence with a rosewood body and mahogany neck. It's kept in a safe. Excuse the glare in the lower corner. I have more pics but need to do some photo editing.

The real highlight, for me at least, was a quilt hanging on the wall with signatures of about a hundred country music stars. The story behind this was even more interesting. A lady in town got it in mind to create this and contacted various management companies for the different stars informing them of the project. She sent out 4 pieces of material to each and these stars signed them...then she quilted over the signatures. Timing is always of the essence and I was told she received the items back from Elvis' management on the day he passed away. Download the picture and zoom in ... a unique project. There are three other versions of this quilt but they are not for sale, not that I didn't ask.

Now we haven't been chasing down dead people at the rate we normall do but Jimmie's grave was just around the corner and we figured it wouldn't hurt to add another stone, or two, to our collection.



The day ends with a stop at Dunns Fall and a short ride to Hattieburg.

Tomorrow...the Big Easy.

Backroads TourDay 4 Tennessee again

Tonight I'll volunteer no opinions except this one...if you go to Nashville the #1 don't miss thing to do is ????
Visit the Ryman? No
Go to the Grand Ole Opry? No
Watch some hockey team play the Blackhawks? No

You gotta book a tour on the Nash Trash Pink Bus.

The most unorthodox and "R" rated city tour I've ever had. A laugh riot from start to finish. While they don't dish as much "trash" as you'd like they definitely engage the tourists and give you a different, if skewed, look at Nashville.


A stop at Jack Daniels to stock up filled our route to Hamilton AL where we're resting tonight. We have a friend in Kentucky who tells us Tennessee whiskey is swill but we think that's just sibling rivalry amongst a couple states(g)

Backroad TourDay 3TennesseeThe Volunteer State

The morning starts with a quick stop at the Old Bardstown Village for a few shots of life before...well, pretty much before anything I knew. The buildings were made out of wood and they are falling apart. No need for pics, you'll see some samples later.

Off to the Volunteer State...so let me volunteer some opinions. Americans and Canadians are a lot alike, and not. The differences are sometimes subtle, but telling, or if not telling, at least they beg a question. For instance, in the US all the bridges over the major interstates have fences. The question is...how many people were throwing bricks onto passing cars to make THAT necessary? Try to pump gas here without being forced to pay for it first. The question is...how many people fill up with gas and take off without paying to make THAT necessary? Many bridges are named after deceased law enforcement officers, a noble thing I think. In Canada we have a lot of unnamed bridges, the supply of bridges far outnumbers the demand for honorariums. In Canada I know lots of people but none who pay 25% of their income for medical insurance. In the Canadian dictionary there is no entry for 'co-payment', whatever that is. OK, off the soapbox for now.

Before we make our way into the city we take the opportunity to stop at Andrew Jackson's Hermitage, his homestead, just east of Nashville proper. The Hermitage is in some disrepair (not unlike America itself) and currently there's an effort being made to restore it (not unlike America itself). Ain't much to say about Old Hickory's crib, one ostentatious main mansion surrounded by decrepit slave quarters (not unlike America itself).


OK, NOW I'm off the soapbox.

Jackson did do me the favour of not having to chase down his carcass at some remote burial ground as he has chosen to spend eternity at home, with his family.


First stop in Music City is Jack's record store, Third Man Records. Interesting side project Jack has going, a big "fuck you" to the majors in the music industry who have forsaken developing new talent for the more cost efficient "let us shove some Idols you voted for down your throats, that way we know what you will buy even before we record it." I missed being in the city for Record Store Day where The Raconteurs played a set at the inhouse recording studio/venue. Got here too early for the release of Wanda Jackson's album.


Them's the breaks. Did pick up a hundred dollars worth of Stripes crap and could have spent another $300 on some rare vinyl if Cece didn't pull me out.

What's wrong with this picture?

It's one thing to build a replica of the Parthenon but it loses some of it's appeal if you let motorized vehicles park in front of it.

The night time is the right time, to be with the one you love, too many things get in the way in the day...yada, yada, yada. Cece and I spend a nice evening on the General Jackson cruising the Cumberland River and watching a hokey (but enjoyable) country music show.

Backroads TourDay2KentuckyThe Bluegrass State

Normally I like my grass green, but today we'll make an exception.

Loretta Lynn's home in Van Lear, this should be easy.

You'd think.

If you ever try to find this place just when you think you must have gone wrong...keep going.

When you see this lovely road marker

you are almost there.

You're not nearly out of danger, but you're almost there.

The road gets narrower and the cliff-edge gets closer, so the thing to do is to drive right by the freakin' house so you gotta navigate a U-turn with a rock wall on one side and sure death on the other. Made it though...and that should be self-evident.

Unfortunately we couldn't find Webb's General Store on the way in so we were unable to arrange a tour. (This can be done by phoning ahead and Loretta's brother will take you in.) On the way in you don't see the front of this store, only the side.


Making our way out of coal country we cross the great state of Kentucky until we come to the Daniel Boone Forest, home of the Red River Gorge. More long and winding roads with the threat of imminent death a little more remote...here there are fences along the cliff edge. Some lovely scenery and the funky Nada tunnel bore into the mountain as you exit.

Hope to have a nice scenic shot for my collection but the photos require some work and work ain't on the agenda this week.

From there we stop in Lexington for dinner,drinks and a bit of conversation with longtime dylanpool friend aliasanything and spouse...who are Abby and Bryan in the real, non-interweb world. Some people you can't forget, even if you only meet them once or twice...Abby's on that list. The kids are working hard on their next EP and album and you can check out their sounds at The Rainjunkies site. Our plan was to stop in for an hour or so but time flies when you're having fun, so four hours later, we're back on the Bluegrass Hwy heading for Bardstown while watching a beautiful red-sky sunset.

Backroads TourDay 1 Ohio The Buckeye State

Staying far away from the big cities the day starts with a short detour from our Ashtabula hotel to the Hubbard House Museum, a late stage safe-house on the Underground Railroad.

We follow the south shore of Lake Erie west a few miles and land at the Nifty 50's Diner in Madison for a hearty breakfast prior to heading into the heart of Amish country.

Now Amish country wasn't the joy I thought it would be. No fault of the Amish who could be seen in their horse-drawn buggies holding up traffic on various roads. The problem was in the "Amish towns" which were really towns near Amish farms making a living off people like me who detour to see something authentic.

Lehman's Hardware in Kidron was worth the stop. Picked up a cast-iron frying pan. It was heavy. Some interesting 'way back' stuff in there if you want to pay $8,000 for a vintage round-edged fridge.

Berlin was too busy to stop and a little hilly so we moved on to Millersburg for food and a $12 Kodak Brownie camera that will find a place in my curio cabinet once it's nice and shiny, if never operable.

In Roscoe Village (near Coshocton) we came across a quilt...ahhh, this is the perfect memento of a trip to Amish country...except it was made in China. So much for authenticity.

Unfortunately we woke up to a chilly morning, snow threatening and wind blowing hard. This made it a little difficult to comfortably meander the streets in these little towns so perhaps I'm not being fair. Of course, the can just counter-blog if they feel hard done by.

We did come across a dangerously interesting, if a little paranoid, display of American liberty in action. This guy has some issues.

Heading to South Charleston we close the day with a trip to the Indian Burial Mound. When the Smithsonian excavated this site in 1840 they discovered 10 skeletons surrounding one 7 foot tall skeleton. Significance of that, I don't know, except that I'd imagine they were good at basketball as well as lacrosse.